I have been waiting for this mythical climb through the Khumbu icefall for a long time and couldn’t have hoped for better conditions. The icefall kept its promises.
Departure @ 3 a.m, no wind, cool temperatures and being reunited with Pima (see blog post of Tengboche) as my Sherpa for the climb.
The conditions in the icefall are amazing. Exceptionally dry conditions. The ice doctors have put in place a very safe route. I’ve been told that it gets better every year, certainly on par or better than what I have seen in the Alps as far as security is concerned.
There are very few ladders this year. Only one vertical ones (around 4-5 elements or 5 story high) and a few short horizontal ones across crevasses.
The scenery is enormous and dantesque and saw the moon setting as the sun rose!
Lots of vertical ice climbs and rappelling on the way up and down the icefall, what a treat.
We also had a reminder that it’s not good to stay too long here. There were serac crashes on two occasions a few hundred meters away. Reason why we leave early, in the cold before things start moving…
Back in time for breakfast shortly before 8 a.m. Now for a shower and some active rest…